Varkala Beach – No Swimming, Find Something Else to Do!

The seaside, cliff-side beach town of Varkala, in Kerala State, India is spectacular. The hotels and restaurants are perched on top of a towering, crumbling cliff with a beautiful beach below.

The geology of the area is special because it is one of the only places to see seaside cliffs on the Arabian sea coast. It is also interesting because it’s very easy to imagine certain of the restaurants toppling off the cliff. There is a walking ( and scootering) path along the top that gives access to the restaurants, and in some places it is undercut or just plain gone. Down at the bottom you can see big blocks of rock that have broken off and tumbled down.

Big piece of Varkala
It must have been exciting when this one came down.

In low season most of the restaurants and hotels are closed, but you can see from the signage that the popular activities are yoga, ayurvedic massage and other treatments, and the beach.


Apparently, swimming is one of the attractions, but don’t even think about it during monsoon season. After our Owl Adventure we went to the beach all geared up for some splashing around in the water. We already knew from our stay in Kovalam that we wouldn’t be able to swim; the ocean is quite rough and not so warm. We thought we would be able to splash around in the waves a little, and maybe have a mudfight…

Mud fight!
Wet sand and mud fights are always a popular activity!

There are two ways to get to Varkala beach. The easy but long way is to walk all the way along the cliff to get to the road. The more adventurous option is to take one of the three crumbling, gravelly, muddy staircases. Sound like fun, yes? We took one stairway to get down and another even sketchier one to get back up.

Bottom of stairs
The bottom is a mud slide.

I thought the bottom was rough…

Top of the stairs
The safety features are long rusted away!

What to do at the beach?

When we got to the beach, we arrived just in time to see some tourists get whistled out of the surf by the beach police. They were too far away for us to understand what was going on at the time. We walked down the beach a ways until we arrived at the beach police station.

Varkala Beach Police
This ain’t no Baywatch.

The Varkala beach patrol consists of two mustachioed (of course) gentlemen in uniform under a beach umbrella. They don’t seem to be visibly ready to leap into the surf, except for the silicone bathing caps in their shirt pockets. I think their job is more prevention than rescue.

We asked them about swimming, they said “No sir, no swimming permitted.”

We asked them about splashing around in the waves, they said “No sir, no entry into the sea at all permitted.”

When I looked disappointed and confused, they elaborated. The message was that even if I am a strong swimmer, “Indians can’t swim” (his words not mine). The concern is that and they might be led astray by my example. Apparently 50 people have drowned at the beach in the Trivandrum area last month!

Well, that rules out the entire Arabian Sea for the day.

Time to find something else to do in Varkala!

We wandered the beach for bit until we discovered three pipes sticking out of the cliff wall with water pouring out.

Where does the water come from?
One of the three “springs” coming out of the cliff.

We wondered at first whether the water was “runoff” from the hotels at the top of the cliff. The distance seemed too far to be worth the trouble. We asked some locals about it and they said not only was it clean, but one of them was safe to drink, apparently. Erring on the side of caution, we chose not to drink the groundwater.

The water coming out of the pipe pooled below and then just seeped off down the beach toward the ocean. There was an area about 20 square meters downhill that was all muddy and covered in green algae.

Many local people were stopping by these pipes to rinse their feet, wash their hands, generally refresh themselves. There was a subset of locals that were taking care of a lot more business. These two men arrived with a change of clothes and proceeded to do laundry. They spread their clothes out on the hot sand to dry, and then showered and washed (hair too). The neatest part was when they plucked leaves off a nearby bush and finger-brushed their teeth with leaf pulp.

Our kids started to splash around in the water, and just to kill some time I dug a small trench with my heel. Inevitably, the trench got wider and longer, channeling the water downhill. Not bad, but would be better with tools. Enter the digging stick.

An hour later, I had drained the muddy area and the algae was drying up. The kids were sailing leaf boats down the drainage canal, and we had filled an afternoon.

Sailing leaf boats
Phase 2 of drainage ditching, sailing leaf boats.

I guess a grown man digging apparently pointless ditches on the beach is not a common sight. We had some locals interested but not quite ready to pitch in. Not until the Little Fella came over with an armload of digging sticks. You can count on him for an armload of sticks at any given moment.

We got some help!
Small cute boy with tools gets everyone into the game.

After the Little Guy rallied the troops, we had enough diggers to trench right down to the ocean. The problem then was the flow rate of the spring water. The beach sand absorbed the water faster than it was flowing. We never made it to the sea. But we had loads of fun all afternoon!

There’s always something to do with your kids, as long as you have a digging stick.

Owl Rescue – An Unexpected Adventure

We were headed to the beach with a picnic when my eagle-eyed (hehe) wife spotted a baby owl on the side of the road.

Baby owl is so cute!
Our first pic, before we got emotionally invested.

She called me and the Chica over to look and the owl panicked and flew a few feet into some tall grass. We crept closer, just to take a picture. It was then we say that the little bird was covered in big, red ants. Ahhh! Nobody likes red ants!


I grabbed a small stick and started brushing off the ants, but the little owl was at the base of a brick wall with a stream of ants headed his way. There were too many, with more on the way!

Save the owl!
It’s hard to see the ants, but they’re on their way!

The poor little owl was in distress! We had to help him! But what to do?
“Pick him up and move him away from the ants!” Vero said to me.
“Are you out of your mind?” I replied, “look at his sharp little beak!”
After a chorus of “We have to help him!” from the kids, I took the Little Fella’s ( the boy, not the owl) hat and gently dropped it on his head ( the owl, not the boy). Veeerryy gingerly I scooped up the little owl in the hat, and raised my eyes to see the specter of death staring at me. A large grey cat on the wall, just watching. Not quite licking his lips, but you could see him thinking it.

I shuddered a little, looked at the owl in the hat, looked at my wife, and said “Now what?”.

Now what?

Monsoon Season in India – So far so good

Here we are in Varkala, southern India at the beginning of monsoon season, and it’s not raining. Believe me, I’m not complaining. It’s great to be travelling in low, low season and still have great weather!

We took an Uber ( great alternative to auto-rickshaws ( what they call tuk-tuks here) over longer distances) from Kovalam to Trivandrum and I was chatting with the driver about the monsoon. He said that it is late arriving this year, and it arrives first in the south. I figure if we head north at just the right pace, we can stay in the sweet spot. We arrive after high season is over, but before monsoon hits.

Beautiful monsoon weather
Blue skies for monsoon season!

Clearly we can’t predict / control the weather, so we’ll just keep on travelling at our usual tranquil pace and hope for the best. At the moment here in Varkala, the hotels are empty and 2/3 of the restaurants are closed. This is not a bad thing because there are about a million restaurants along the edge of this cliff. We’d never be able to decide where to eat if they were all open.

Our current hotel is by far the cheapest one we’ve stayed in anywhere on this trip. At $5 CAD per night per room ( we have two rooms), it’s great for our budget. But. You get what you pay for. The place needs some serious airing out and some new pillows would be nice. You can’t have everything.

There’s a little beach at the bottom of the cliff so we’ll go splash around in the waves today. After that there’s not much else to do here so it’s off up the coast, running from the monsoon. Next stop is Allapuzha (also known as Allepey, everywhere has two names…?) where we’ll go houseboating on the Kerala backwater!

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