Here we are in Varkala, southern India at the beginning of monsoon season, and it’s not raining. Believe me, I’m not complaining. It’s great to be travelling in low, low season and still have great weather!
We took an Uber ( great alternative to auto-rickshaws ( what they call tuk-tuks here) over longer distances) from Kovalam to Trivandrum and I was chatting with the driver about the monsoon. He said that it is late arriving this year, and it arrives first in the south. I figure if we head north at just the right pace, we can stay in the sweet spot. We arrive after high season is over, but before monsoon hits.
Clearly we can’t predict / control the weather, so we’ll just keep on travelling at our usual tranquil pace and hope for the best. At the moment here in Varkala, the hotels are empty and 2/3 of the restaurants are closed. This is not a bad thing because there are about a million restaurants along the edge of this cliff. We’d never be able to decide where to eat if they were all open.
Our current hotel is by far the cheapest one we’ve stayed in anywhere on this trip. At $5 CAD per night per room ( we have two rooms), it’s great for our budget. But. You get what you pay for. The place needs some serious airing out and some new pillows would be nice. You can’t have everything.
There’s a little beach at the bottom of the cliff so we’ll go splash around in the waves today. After that there’s not much else to do here so it’s off up the coast, running from the monsoon. Next stop is Allapuzha (also known as Allepey, everywhere has two names…?) where we’ll go houseboating on the Kerala backwater!
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